Hey there, welcome to Sapporo! As someone who’s lived in this city for 40 years, I want to introduce you to a place that’s a go-to healing spot for us locals: Jozankei Onsen.
It’s about an hour’s drive or bus ride from central Sapporo. Easy to get to, yet blessed with rich nature and fantastic hot springs – truly Sapporo’s “Okuzashiki” (a term meaning a secluded room, often used for hot spring resorts near a city). I’m sure visitors from overseas will love it too. I don’t know if it’s still the case, but it used to be a classic spot for university graduation trips. For Sapporo residents, it’s not far, but it’s the kind of place used for slightly nicer get-togethers or company retreats.
What Kind of Place is Jozankei Onsen? Why Jozankei Onsen?
Many locals might not even know this, but do you know the origin of the name “Jozankei”? It actually comes from a Buddhist monk named Jozan who, guided by the Ainu people (the indigenous people of Hokkaido), discovered and developed this hot spring area long ago. So, while it might seem like just another hot spring town, it’s actually a place with deep ties to the ancient history of Japan and Hokkaido.
Jozankei Onsen itself has a history spanning over 150 years since its opening, with numerous hotels and ryokans (Japanese inns) lining the valley along the Toyohira River.
The signature feature here is the Sodium Chloride Spring. It’s clear, colorless, and slightly salty. It warms you to the core, and it’s said to be great for the skin. It’s apparently effective for things like nerve pain, muscle aches, joint pain, and fatigue recovery. But technicalities aside, it just feels incredibly good!
You can find more details on the Jozankei Tourist Association’s official website (English). URL: https://jozankei.jp/en/
How to Enjoy Jozankei: More Than Just Hot Springs!
Of course, the main draw is the hot springs, but Jozankei has much more to offer.
1. Refresh with a Day Trip Onsen
Even if you’re not staying overnight, many facilities offer “Higaeri Nyuu-to” (day trip bathing). Prices are generally around 1,000 to 2,000 yen. You’ll usually need to bring your own towel or rent one for a fee. Larger hotels often have fantastic Rotenburo (open-air baths) where you can soak while gazing at the valley scenery. It’s incredibly relaxing. Also, some hotels in Jozankei boast extensive pool facilities, like the Jozankei View Hotel, famous for its large indoor water park “Lagoon”. They seem to offer day plans for pool and onsen use, so if you’re interested, check out their official website (English). URL: https://www.jozankeiview.com/en/ (Please note that prices and operating hours can change, so it’s best to check the official websites of the facilities before you go)
2. Beautiful Nature in Four Seasons
Jozankei is truly rich in nature.
- Spring: As the snow melts, the trees burst into life all at once. It’s a season of gentle, fresh greens. Some days might still be a bit chilly, but the combination of hot springs and new foliage is exceptional.
- Summer: Surrounded by deep green, the murmuring of the river is soothing. Perfect for escaping the heat. There are spots where you can try canoeing or SUP (Stand-Up Paddleboarding).
- Autumn: This might be the most popular season! From early to mid-October, the entire valley is ablaze with red and yellow Koyo (Autumn Leaves) – it’s breathtakingly beautiful. Truly a stunning sight. The autumn foliage is seriously beautiful; this might be the absolute highlight.
- Winter: Soaking in an open-air bath amidst a pure white snowscape is truly magical. Experiencing a “Yukimi-buro” (snow-viewing bath) is a unique Hokkaido winter delight.
3. Strolling Around the Onsen Town
Dotted around the onsen town are free Ashiyu (foot baths) and Teyu (hand baths). It’s nice to be able to casually enjoy the hot springs during a walk. I actually went for a drive with my girlfriend the other day and stopped by a foot bath. The new facility built last year was clean, beautiful, and quite satisfying. Enjoy a walk and take in the atmosphere of the onsen town and the natural scenery.
Also, Jozankei has an official mascot character named “Kappon,” who is quite charming and cute. You can find various merchandise featuring him. (Jozankei has long been associated with legends of “Kappa,” mythical water creatures in Japanese folklore).
4. Nearby Attractions
If you venture a little further, you’ll find spots like these:
- Jozankei Farm: A tourist farm where you can enjoy fruit picking (seasonal), a cafe with great views, and a fishing pond. Popular with families. Honestly, even many Sapporo locals are like, “Huh, there’s a place like this?” It tends to be overshadowed by the more famous onsen and dam. But if you go, you’ll find it’s a really nice spot surrounded by nature. A hidden gem, for sure. Here’s the official website (Japanese only). Try using your browser’s translation feature. URL:
https://jozankei-farm.com/ - Hoheikyo Dam: Also famous as a spot for autumn leaves. The view from the top of the dam is spectacular. To protect the environment, you travel to the dam via an electric bus. Going here during the autumn foliage season is truly the best. Jozankei itself is great for autumn leaves, but here, the powerful dam scenery and the foliage match perfectly, offering a dynamic natural landscape. The electric bus ride might seem like a bit of a hassle, but I personally enjoyed the sense of journey it provided. Here’s the official website (Japanese only). Check it out with browser translation too. URL:
https://www.houheikyou.jp/ - Jozankei Nature Village: A facility where you can camp or stay in cottages. Recommended if you love the outdoors.
5. Jozankei Gourmet
When you think of an onsen town, you think of Onsen Manju (hot spring steamed buns). They’re subtly sweet and delicious. You should find them sold at various souvenir shops, so give one a try if you get the chance. Additionally, there are restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy dishes made with local vegetables, Genghis Khan (Mongolian BBQ – a Hokkaido specialty), soup curry, and other Hokkaido-style gourmet foods.
How to Get to Jozankei
Access from central Sapporo is convenient by bus. As a local, I find driving the easiest, but if you’re not comfortable driving in Japan (especially as a tourist), taking the bus is the safer bet.
- Kappa Liner Bus: A reservation-required direct bus from Sapporo Station, Odori, or Susukino to Jozankei Onsen. No transfers, very easy. Takes about 60 minutes.
- Local Bus: Operated by Jotetsu Bus. Departs from Sapporo Station Bus Terminal and runs frequently. Takes about 75 minutes.
Bus fares and timetables are subject to change, so always check the official website for the latest information before you go. Pay special attention as the “Kappa Liner Bus” requires reservations!
You can check the Jotetsu Bus official website. Choose your language from this URL and check the information for the Kappa Liner and local buses: URL: https://www.jotetsu.co.jp/bus/global/index.html
If driving (rental car), take National Route 230 south. The road is easy to follow, but be very careful when driving on snowy roads in winter. Icy roads are particularly slippery, so drive slowly and safely.
About Crowds
Jozankei gets most crowded during the autumn foliage season on weekends from early to mid-October. During this time, both the onsen town and surrounding roads often get quite congested. The road to Hoheikyo Dam is particularly prone to traffic jams. If you plan to visit during this period, aiming for a weekday or allowing plenty of extra time is recommended. To be honest, as a local who knows how great the autumn leaves are, I actually avoid weekends entirely during this time. It’s just too crowded, in my opinion. If I go, I aim for a weekday when I have ample time. The town also gets lively at night during events like the “Yuki Toro” (Snow Lantern Road) in winter. Outside of these peak times, you can generally enjoy a more relaxed visit.
Conclusion
Jozankei Onsen is a place packed with the charms of nature and hot springs, easily enjoyable even as a day trip from Sapporo. It’s perfect when you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and relax. Luxurious resorts are nice, but spending some leisurely time in a local Japanese onsen town like this will surely become a wonderful memory.
I really hope you’ll consider visiting during your stay in Sapporo. I’m confident you’ll think, “I’m glad I came!
