Sapporo’s Seafood Havens: A Local’s Honest Guide to Jogai & Nijo Markets

Hey everyone! As a Sapporo local of 40 years, I’m here to give you the inside scoop on two of Sapporo’s must-visit culinary hotspots, especially for my friends 여행객 (travelers) from overseas: the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market & Curb Market (Jyogai Ichiba), and Nijo Market. I’ll be sharing some honest, local perspectives – a few tidbits you might not find in your average guidebook!

Read on, and I guarantee your Sapporo trip will become even more profound and delicious. I might throw in a slightly blunt comment here and there, but please forgive me – it’s all out of local love!

Sapporo’s Vibrant Kitchen! The Charms of the Central Wholesale Market and Curb Market

First up, let’s dive into the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market, the main artery of Sapporo’s food scene, and its adjacent Curb Market (Jyogai Ichiba).

What’s the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market Like? Can the Public Get In?

The Sapporo Central Wholesale Market (札幌市中央卸売市場) is a professional wholesale market where fresh ingredients from all over Hokkaido gather. You’re probably curious about seeing the lively auctions, right? Well, good news! There are an observation deck and dedicated corridors on the second floor where you can actually watch the market action and the famous tuna auctions (though they’re super early in the morning!). Of course, you can’t go onto the market floor and participate in the bidding, but getting to see the pros at work emozioni (emotions) up close is a pretty valuable experience. For visitor information, events, and tour details, check out the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market’s official website (Japanese). You should be able to get the gist by using your browser’s translate function. The auctions are very early, so if you’re interested, you’ll need to be an early bird!

Exciting for Locals Too! The Curb Market is a Hit with Tourists!

Once you’ve felt the market’s energy, head right next door to the Sapporo Curb Market (札幌市中央卸売市場 場外市場 – Sapporo Jyogai Market). This place is totally tourist-friendly! You’ll find rows and rows of shops selling fresh seafood and Hokkaido specialty products. Do check out the Sapporo Curb Market’s official website as well.

Honestly, I do think some of the prices are geared towards tourists. But hey, even as a local, I sometimes stumble upon some real gems (“Oh, this is good!”). The chats with the shopkeepers are fun, and just soaking in the lively atmosphere makes it worth a visit, in my opinion.

Access Info (Just a guideline!):

• About a 7-minute walk from Nijuyonken Station on the Tozai Subway Line.
• About a 10-minute walk from Soen Station on the JR Line.
• A taxi from Sapporo Station or Susukino would probably cost around ¥1500-¥2000. Please remember this is an estimate at the time of writing, so “definitely” check official sources for the latest information yourself.

Curb Market Gourmet – A Tad Pricey? But the Atmosphere and Taste are Special!

One of the biggest draws of the Curb Market has to be the eateries where you can savor fresh seafood on the spot! There are so many seafood rice bowl (kaisendon), sushi, and grilled fish restaurants that you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Here too, I have to admit, the prices are a bit on the higher side compared to, say, an izakaya downtown, as it’s a tourist spot. However, every now and then, you can find a donburi that even a local like me would exclaim, “This is great value for money!” More than anything, enjoying a seafood meal in that unique, bustling market atmosphere is a special experience that makes you forget the everyday. Many shops open early, so grabbing breakfast here is also a great idea.

A Local’s Honest Take ①: Secret Ways to Enjoy the Curb Market…

People say the Curb Market is for tourists, but if you go early in the morning when there are fewer visitors, you might find rare seafood usually meant for wholesale vendors. And if you become a familiar face, some of the hearty shopkeepers might even throw in a little extra for you. Not every shop, mind you, but experiencing that old-school market warmth is a way to enjoy it that you probably won’t read about in guidebooks. You’ll have to wake up early for that, though!

The Famous Downtown Market! A Thorough Look at Nijo Market

Next up is Nijo Market (二条市場), located in the heart of Sapporo. This one has a slightly different vibe from the Curb Market.

Super Accessible! Easy to Drop by Nijo Market While Sightseeing

The biggest appeal of Nijo Market is, without a doubt, its location! It’s in central Sapporo, just a short walk from Odori Park, Susukino, and the Tanukikoji Shopping Street. So, it’s really convenient to pop in while you’re out sightseeing. There’s an official Nijo Market website (Japanese) too, so give it a look with your browser’s translate function.

Access Info (Just a guideline!):

• About a 5-minute walk from Odori Station (Tozai, Namboku, Toho subway lines).
• It’s also close to Hosui-Susukino Station on the Toho Subway Line.

Nijo Market’s Atmosphere and Offerings?

Nijo Market is compact, but it’s packed with shops selling Hokkaido’s signature seafood like crab, scallops, salmon roe, and sea urchin, as well as agricultural products like melons. It’s an arcade, so it’s nice that you can shop without getting wet, even on a rainy day. There are eateries here too, where you can enjoy fresh seafood bowls.

A Local’s Honest Take ②: Nijo Market, What Do We Really Think?

Okay, from here on, I’m going to give you a bit of a brutally honest local opinion. I can’t say this too loudly, but Nijo Market has such a strong “for tourists” image that, frankly, almost no one I know goes there specifically to shop.

The thing is, in Hokkaido, you can actually get pretty fresh and delicious seafood at relatively reasonable prices at your local supermarket. So, if a local hears someone say they “went out of their way to buy something at Nijo Market,” their reaction would most likely be, “Huh, why?” or “Were you sightseeing?” (My apologies to anyone who loves Nijo Market!). Unless you have a very specific “it has to be this item from this shop!” kind of preference, I don’t think many locals use it regularly.

But Nijo Market Has Its Charms Too!

Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying Nijo Market is bad. I’ve heard some discerning locals say things like, “The quality of that item at that shop is different, so Nijo Market is the place to go.” And while I personally feel the prices are a bit touristy, perhaps those with a keen eye can see the value.

Above all, its excellent location is fantastic. And because you can see a compact collection of “This is Hokkaido!”-type seafood products at a glance, I think it’s a very convenient place for tourists who don’t have much time to efficiently find souvenirs or get a taste of Hokkaido’s atmosphere.

Not Just Seafood! Check Out Other Souvenirs at the Markets!

At both markets, you can find other Hokkaido souvenirs besides seafood. Look for melons, corn (seasonal, of course!), cheese, and sweets. It can be fun to browse around. The Curb Market, in particular, has quite a few shops that don’t specialize only in seafood, so you might discover something interesting if you look carefully.

Bonus Tips for Enjoying the Markets Even More

• Go early to avoid crowds! The Curb Market, especially, tends to get crowded with tourists as it gets closer to lunchtime. If you want to browse at a leisurely pace, early morning is recommended. Conversely, if you go late in the afternoon, items might be sold out, and some shops might start closing, so be mindful of that.
• Price haggling…? Most shops have fixed prices, but if you’re buying a lot or if you hit it off with the shopkeeper, they might give you a little something extra… maybe? Persistent haggling is a no-no, but try to enjoy the communication.
• A cooler bag is a must! If you’re buying fresh seafood, either bring a cooler bag and ice packs or buy them at the market. Be especially careful during the summer.
• Sampling is part of the fun! Some shops offer samples, so don’t hesitate to try them. But it’s bad manners to only sample without buying anything.
• Check shipping costs! If you’re buying a lot for souvenirs, you can use a delivery service to send them to your home or hotel. Make sure to confirm the shipping costs beforehand. Shipping fees and services can change, so always confirm on the spot.

To Sum It Up: Both Markets Have Their Own Unique Appeal!

So, did I manage to convey that it’s not about which market is better or worse, but that both the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market & Curb Market and Nijo Market have their own distinct charms?

• If you want to see the pros at the wholesale market, then fully immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere, diverse offerings, and “market feel,” the Curb Market is definitely the place to go (after your wholesale market visit)! The prices at the Curb Market might be a bit steep, but that atmosphere is priceless.
• If you want to quickly find Hokkaido-esque ingredients and souvenirs while you’re sightseeing, Nijo Market is convenient! Its accessibility is top-notch.

Both markets are valuable places where you can experience Sapporo’s food culture. As a local, while I understand the tourist-oriented aspects, I believe you can have a satisfying experience if you use them wisely. I really hope you’ll see them with your own eyes, taste with your own tongue, and enjoy Sapporo’s markets!

Hope this article helps with your Sapporo trip!